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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.